分析与测评2023年8月第4期Aug.2023,No.4香料香精化妆品FLAVOURFRAGRANCECOSMETICS106www.ffc-journal.com*基金项目:广东省中医药局科研项目(编号20212158)收稿日期:2022-08-01;修回日期:2022-08-21作者1.上海市疾病预防控制中心,公共服务与健康安全评价所,上海200336;2.南方医科大学皮肤病医院,广东广州510091;3.上海家化联合股份有限公司研发中心,上海200082……………………………………陈田1叶理2#殷庆飞3#含有亚油酸和神经酰胺的润肤剂皮肤屏障修护的作用机制*摘要通过小鼠皮肤屏障损伤模型和重组人表皮模型研究含有亚油酸和神经酰胺的润肤剂皮肤屏障修护作用机制。将小鼠背部脱毛后连续涂抹润肤剂7天,皮肤经胶带撕脱后4h屏障恢复率显著提升。将表皮模型暴露于润肤剂24h,其FLG、LOR、CASP14、TGM1、SPRR2A、SPRR2B、HMGCR、SPT1、PPARG、CLDN1、OCLN、ZO-1等基因表达显著升高。说明该润肤剂的皮肤屏障修护功能与促进角质包膜形成、脂质合成、角质形成细胞紧密连接以及调节角质形成细胞的增殖和分化等有关。关键词润肤剂皮肤屏障修护作用机制亚油酸神经酰胺MechanismofSkinBarrierRepairingofanEmollientContainingLinoleicAcidandCeramide*CHENTian1YELi2#YINQingfei3#(1.DivisionofPublicHealthServiceandSafetyAssessment,ShanghaiMunicipalCenterforDiseaseControlandPrevention,Shanghai200336,China;2.DermatologyHospital,SouthernMedicalUniversity,Guangzhou510091,Guangdong,China;3.R&DCenterofShanghaiJahwaUnitedCo.,Ltd.,Shanghai200082,China)Abstract:Mechanismofskinbarrierrepairingofanemollientcontaininglinoleicacidandceramidewasexploredinamouseskinbarrierinjurymodelandrecombinanthumanepidermismodel.Afterapplyingemollientfor7d,thebarrierrecoveryrateinmiceincreasedsignificantlyin4hafterthetapestriping.ThemRNAexpressionsofFLG,LOR,CASP14,TGM1,SPRR2A,SPRR2B,HMGCR,SPT1,PPARG,CLDN1,OCLN,ZO-1andotherfunctionalgenesastheepidermalmodelexposedtoemollientsfor24h.Theaboveresultsshowthattheskinbarrierrepairfunctionoftheemollientcontaininglinoleicacidisrelatedtopromotingcornifiedenvelopeformation,lipidsynthesisandtightconnectionofkeratinocytes,andregulatingtheproliferationanddifferentiationofkeratinocytes.Keywords:emollientskinbarrierrepairingmechanismofactio...