第53卷第2期2023年2月Vol.53No.2Feb.2023·193·日用化学工业(中英文)ChinaSurfactantDetergent&CosmeticsReceived:September1,2022;Revised:January30,2023.*Correspondingauthor.Tel.:+86-18611801510,E-mail:liulei@btbu.edu.cn.北京市科技计划项目(Z171100001517006)DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.010ResearchstatusofcosmeticsoothingefficacyevaluationQidanTan1,YongxianBi2,LeiLiu1,*,XueqingHu2,XiaoyanDai2(1.CosmeticsDepartment,CollegeofChemistryandMaterialsScience,BeijingTechnologyandBusinessUniversity,Beijing100048,China;2.ZhejiangYigeEnterpriseManagementGroupCo.LTD,Hangzhou,Zhejiang310000,China)Abstract:Inrecentyears,withthecontinuousdevelopmentoftheglobaleconomyandthegradualimprovementofthelivingstandardsofresidents,consumershavehigherandhigherrequirementsonthequantity,quality,safetyandefficacyofcosmetics.Atthesametime,theproportionofpeoplewithsensitiveskinisgraduallyincreasingduetoairpollution,ultravioletradiation,workandlifepressure,irregulardietandrest,andlong-termwearingofmasksduringtheepidemic.Comparedwithnormalskin,sensitiveskinismorepronetoskinirritationandotherproblems,whilesoothingcosmeticscanhelpimprovetheskintension,dryness,redness,burning,tingling,itching,scaleandotheradverseskinconditionscausedbyinternalandexternalfactors.China’scurrentlawsandregulations,theEvaluationCriteriaforCosmeticEfficacyclaims,clearlyrequirethatcosmeticswithefficacyclaimssuchasantiwrinkle,firmingandsoothingshouldbeevaluatedforefficacyclaims.However,atpresent,thereisnoscientificandeffectivemethodsystemrelatedtotheevaluationofsoothingefficacyathomeandabroad,andthereisnostandardevaluationmethodforreferenceintheindustry.Itisnotconducivetothedevelopmentofrawmaterials,formulationdevelopmentandefficacyevaluationofsoothingcosmetics,anditisdifficulttoprotecttherightsandinterestsofconsumers.Startingfromthecausesofsensitiveskin,thispaperexpoundstheformationmechanismofsensitiveskincausedbytheimpairmentofskinbarrierfunction,skinimmuneinflammatoryreaction,skinnervereactionandtheirmutualpromot...